Drive Shaft Questions

Drive Shaft FAQ

 

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Why do I need to replace my drive shaft?

Your drive shaft may need to be replaced because of wear and tear, or because a modification to the suspension of your vehicle has occured. When a vehicle is lifted, the distance between the transfer case and your axles increases. With this increase in distance, attempting to use a stock drive shaft could result in the drive shaft separating while under flex, or the onset of a new driveline vibration. If you have a vibration issue, see the Double Cardan question below for answers.

How do I measure my drive shaft length?

Measurement is critically important. Too long and it could break your transfer case, too short and it could fall apart. Visit our page on how to measure your drive shaft for all the important details.

How do I determine which series U-Joint I need?

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Do I need a Double Cardan or Standard Style drive shaft?

Double cardan shafts utilize multiple u-joints with a center ball to solve the vibrations caused by an increase in drive line angle. Driveline vibration can occur for multiple reasons. When a vehicle is lifted the angles of the drive shafts become greater. Due to the way a drive shaft with u-joints work, the vibration comes from the u-joints trying to do their job. While this is a vibration you could live with, your transfer case won't be happy about it. Eventually the seals will go and, if you catch the leak in time, it can be fixed but, a transfer case that is run low on fluid, won't be a happy transfer case for long. In the end, it's less expensive to install the correct components rather than deal with the failed ones.

If you order a Double Cardan shaft, the yoke on the transfer case will need to be upgraded as well. The best and most cost effective way to do this is with a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit. Keep in mind, that this kit shortens the main shaft in the transfer case as a means for reducing driveline angle. You must perform your drive shaft measurement after installing the SYE kit!

Is it necessary to replace the drive shaft straps and bolts when installing a new drive shaft?

The correct answer is yes, you should. These are the tiny little components that hold your drive shaft in place and in many ways, take the abuse that torque, horsepower, and hoping deliver. If they are weak, the risk of your drive shaft coming loose under load increases. You do not want to have a drive shaft banging around under your vehicle at 2,000 RPM, it's an aweful noise and feeling to have. For just a few dollars, you can add piece of mind by replacing them.

 

What are u-joints, and how can you diagnose a bad one?

 

What are u-joints, and how can you diagnose a bad one?

 

U-joints are a small, simple component - in fact, they have changed much since the very first automobiles. However, on any vehicle with a driveshaft, its ability to move depends entirely on the u-joint being there. You&#;ll often hear &#;maybe it&#;s the u-joints&#; as a solution offered for problems with a vehicle - but what are they, what do they do, and how do you know if yours is bad? Hale's Automotive in Marion, IL has the answers.

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What is it?

A u-joint, or universal joint, is a component that connects the driveshaft to the differential, and sometimes connects the driveshaft to the transmission or two driveshafts to each other. It&#;s a cross shaped piece with a bearing at each end, that allows for lateral and side to side movement of the driveshaft.

What does it do?

A u-joint allows for slight positions changed between the driveshaft, transmission, and differential. In other words; the driveshaft connects the transmission to the differential, but it can&#;t be a static, solid connection. Since the differential moves independently from the rest of the vehicle over terrain, the transmission and differential don&#;t stay perfectly aligned with one another at all times. The u-joint compensates for motion, keeping the driveshaft connected and spinning freely.

How do you know if it&#;s bad?

First of all, it&#;s important to remember bad u-joints only really apply to rear wheel drive cars, trucks, and SUVs. To a technician that knows what they&#;re looking for, a bad u-joint is obvious, since it displays specific symptoms. A bad u-joint can cause a clunking sound or jerkiness while driving, particularly when letting off of and pressing the accelerator. A bad u-joint can also cause vibration at certain speeds, emanating from the center or rear of the vehicle. If a u-joint is excessively worn, there&#;s an easy test you can perform. With your foot on the brake, shift the car into reverse. Then, shift into drive. If the vehicle makes a clunking sound, or you can feel it knock one time after engagement, a u-joint is likely the culprit. As it wears out, it doesn&#;t make a tight connection to the differential and driveshaft, allowing for too much play at the joint.

Fortunately, a u-joint is a straightforward and inexpensive fix, and one of our technicians can have you back on the road in no time. If you need a second opinion on whether or not your u-joint is going bad, our technicians will diagnose the issue prior to repair. Get it done sooner rather than later - if it breaks completely, the driveshaft will disconnect from the vehicle, which can damage your transmission, the underside of your car, and anything else around it - plus, the vehicle won&#;t be going anywhere until it&#;s fixed. We would hate for that to happen to our drivers, so that's why we want to provide competent repairs and service beforehand. 

No matter your repair or maintenance needs, we&#;ve got you covered. Our team's goal is to get you back on the road safely and quickly. For the best repair and service shop in Marion, IL, call or stop by Hale's Automotive today.

 

 

Thank you for visiting Hale's Automotive in Marion IL. count on our automotive repair technicians to keep your car, truck, suv, or van on the roads longer and safer.

Service Areas: Marion | Carterville | Carbondale | West Frankfort | Pittsburg | Johnston City | Energy | Creal Springs | Goreville | Cambria | Makanda | Carrier Mills | Galatia | Ziegler | and more!

lljanssen said:

The GT now has mi, leading to the following questions:

-What is your experience? Do drive shafts typically have a mi lifespan, i.e., should I expect another failure is coming soon?

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I had a shaft failure on GT that had 50k sólo and 30k as a sidecar tug. You should plan on pulling and inspecting the shaft every 24k, paying particular attention to the u-joints but also to the center shaft section, which should be split, cleaned, and regreased with moly grease.

lljanssen said:

-I had no obvious symptoms of impending failure. Did you notice any signs that a failure was imminent?
-Are there inspection procedures that might suggest that ad U-joint failure is coming?

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Increased vibration, but only in the last 40-50 miles of operation. Inspection as mentioned above, looking for notchiness or stickiness of the joints, and verifying that the central portion is greased and moves freely. The shaft on these bikes is circlipped at each end so it&#;s critical that the center section moves freely to allow for length variance throughout the suspension travel.

lljanssen said:

-If drive shaft life is 100K, have you done a pre-emptive shaft replacement (very expensive part)?

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No.

lljanssen said:

-I have a Clymers manual and reasonable wrenching skills. Are the Clymers descriptions adequate for a replacement project?

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Yes. It&#;s not necessary to remove the FD to pull the shaft, but you need enough room (height) to swing the drive all the way down. However, it&#;s also a good opportunity to inspect and replace or regrease the FD pivot bearings. If they haven&#;t been replaced in 100k they are likely in need of replacing. You need a couple of special tools to properly re-torque the pins and locknuts, like an inch-lb torque wrench and a modified socket for the locknut, but the socket setup can be made inexpensively from a Harbor Freight socket.

lljanssen said:

-Any experience with using a used shaft from a reputable supplier?

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I replaced my shaft with a used one from BeemerBoneyard, from a wrecked RS with only 7k on the clock. The problem with used shafts involve mileage, related wear, and the unknown status of previous servicing on the shaft.

First thing I&#;d do if this were my bike is inspection, cleaning, and regreasing. That will tell you the status of your current shaft and what does or does not need to be replaced.

Best,
DeVern

I had a shaft failure on GT that had 50k sólo and 30k as a sidecar tug. You should plan on pulling and inspecting the shaft every 24k, paying particular attention to the u-joints but also to the center shaft section, which should be split, cleaned, and regreased with moly grease.Increased vibration, but only in the last 40-50 miles of operation. Inspection as mentioned above, looking for notchiness or stickiness of the joints, and verifying that the central portion is greased and moves freely. The shaft on these bikes is circlipped at each end so it&#;s critical that the center section moves freely to allow for length variance throughout the suspension travel.No.Yes. It&#;s not necessary to remove the FD to pull the shaft, but you need enough room (height) to swing the drive all the way down. However, it&#;s also a good opportunity to inspect and replace or regrease the FD pivot bearings. If they haven&#;t been replaced in 100k they are likely in need of replacing. You need a couple of special tools to properly re-torque the pins and locknuts, like an inch-lb torque wrench and a modified socket for the locknut, but the socket setup can be made inexpensively from a Harbor Freight socket.I replaced my shaft with a used one from BeemerBoneyard, from a wrecked RS with only 7k on the clock. The problem with used shafts involve mileage, related wear, and the unknown status of previous servicing on the shaft.First thing I&#;d do if this were my bike is inspection, cleaning, and regreasing. That will tell you the status of your current shaft and what does or does not need to be replaced.Best,DeVern

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