How do you install an anchor bolt?

Sleeve Anchor Threaded Corkscrew Wing Anchor Straight plastic insert Corkscrew plastic or metal insert Metal wings and metal bolt Use for small pictures and light mirrors Use for shelves. light cabinets, and towel bars Use for shelves, heavy mirrors or pictures, orTV mounts 20 pound capacity 50 pound capacity 100 pound capacity

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Safety Considerations

Heavy items such as pedestal sinks, large furniture, and kitchen wall cabinets should not be installed on the wall with drywall anchors. Instead, attach heavy items firmly to wall studs.

How to Install a Sleeve Anchor

You'll need the plastic sleeve anchors plus the provided screws. For tools, use a flathead or a Phillips screwdriver, drill, driver bits, a set of drill bits, and a hammer.

The Spruce / Margot Cavin&#;

1. Select the Drill Bit

   Consult the instructions on the drywall anchor package to select the correct size of drill bit. If you do not have the instructions, estimate the bit size by comparing the bits to the shaft of the sleeves.
   

   Tip

   When in doubt, use a smaller bit than the one that seems appropriate. You can always enlarge the hole if needed.

   The Spruce / Margot Cavin

2. Drill the Hole in the Drywall

   Fit the drill bit in the drill. Drill a hole in the drywall.

   The Spruce / Margot Cavin

3. Tap the Sleeve In

   Push the sleeve into the hole by hand. If the sleeve is tight, gently tap it with the hammer until it is flush with the drywall.
   

   Tip

   If the sleeve resists, do not continue to tap. Instead, remove it, drill a slightly larger hole, then insert a new sleeve.

   The Spruce / Margot Cavin 

4. Drill the Screw in the Sleeve

   Drill the screw clockwise into the plastic sleeve with a drill or with a manual screwdriver.

   The Spruce / Margot Cavin 

How to Install a Threaded Corkscrew Anchor

Along with the plastic or metal corkscrew anchor, you'll need a hammer, small nail, and screwdriver.

1. Pierce a Hole

   For nylon (plastic) anchors, create a small start hole by tapping a nail into the drywall's paper. Metal anchors do not need a start hole as they are strong enough to create a hole on their own.
   

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2. Twist the Anchor Until Flush

   Place a Phillips or flat-head screwdriver in the notched head of the anchor. Turn clockwise. Apply firm (but not hard) pressure, to draw the anchor into the drywall.

   The Spruce / Colleen & Shannon Graham

3. Finish the Anchor

   Turn the anchor until it is flush with the drywall paper. Do not twist too hard or you risk stripping the head of the anchor.
   

   The Spruce / Colleen & Shannon Graham

4. Add Screw

   Add the provided screw to the drywall anchor.
   

   The Spruce / Colleen & Shannon Graham

How to Install a Wing-Style Anchor

You'll need a drill, drill bits, and a screwdriver to attach a wing style anchor on drywall.

1. Drill the Hole

   Consult the product's instructions for the diameter of the drill bit to use to drill the hole.
   

   The Spruce / Colleen & Shannon Graham

2. Attach the Bolt to the Item

   If the bolt is attached to the wings, detach it. Slide the bolt through the hole in the item you want to attach to the wall.
   

   The Spruce / Colleen & Shannon Graham

3. Put the Wings on the Bolt

   Thread the wings onto the bolt. Make sure that the open part of the wings is facing toward the head of the bolt.
   

   The Spruce / Colleen & Shannon Graham

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4. Insert the Wings and Bolt in the Hole

   Compress the wings until they are flat. Slide this into the hole. You may feel or hear the wings snap open once they are in the hole.
   

   The Spruce / Colleen & Shannon Graham

5. Pull the Wings Ahead

   With one hand, pull the bolt and its attached item toward you. You should feel the wings touch the back of the wall. Maintain this pressure. With the other hand, use a screwdriver or drill to turn the bolt clockwise.

6. Fasten the Bolt and Item to the Wall

   Continue turning clockwise until the item is securely fastened to the wall. Do not overtighten.
   
   

   The Spruce / Colleen & Shannon Graham

How to Remove Drywall Anchors

Drywall Sleeve Anchor

You'll need a drill, a flathead screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers to remove a sleeve-style drywall anchor.

1. Remove Screw

   With the manual screwdriver or cordless drill, remove the screw from the plastic sleeve.
   

   The Spruce / Margot Cavin

2. Pry up Side of Sleeve

   The anchor's plastic sleeve has a flange that rests flat against the face of the drywall. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry up the edge of the flange.
   

   The Spruce / Margot Cavin

3. Remove With Pliers

   Grab the edge of the flange with the needle-nose pliers. Pull the anchor sleeve straight out.

   The Spruce / Margot Cavin

Drywall Threaded Corkscrew Anchor

Remove the item and screw from the anchor. Place a screwdriver end onto the notched head of the anchor. Turn counter-clockwise until the anchor is free.

Tip

If the anchor head strips or otherwise cannot be removed, tap it about 1/8 inch into the wall, cover with drywall compound, then paint.

Drywall Wing Style Anchor

With a screwdriver, turn out the bolt counter-clockwise. The wings will drop into the wall. Remove the item from the bolt.

FAQ

• When should you not use drywall anchors?

  Weight restrictions are your primary reason for not using drywall anchors. If you're mounting heavy items, locate the wood studs and mount your item using them. Studs are spaced every 16 to 24 inches. Drywall anchor packaging will list limitations and often require a certain wall thickness to be effective. Most drywall is a 1/2-inch inch thick. Never use a drywall anchor on ceilings unless it's made for that purpose.
  

• Can you install drywall anchors without a drill?

  You don't need a power drill to install anchors. You can create a pilot or guide hole by using a nail or screw and a few hammer taps. Once you get the hole started and start twisting the screw into the anchor, like an expansion anchor, it splits the anchor's body to hold it in the drywall.

• Why are my drywall anchors pulling out?

  An anchor can fail for several reasons, including the item you're hanging is too heavy, the hole for the anchor is too big, the screws going into the anchor are not the right size, and the drywall (or plaster) is old, damaged, and not stable enough. You might need to replace it with a screw-in anchor, a molly bolt, toggle bolt, or another hollow-wall fastener.

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How Concrete Anchors Work

Concrete fasteners are referred to as expansion type concrete fasteners. They derive their holding values from friction. The friction is obtained by the outward pressure created by expanding the anchor against the walls of the hole that is drilled in the base material. All expansion anchors work on this principle. The only one that does not is the concrete screw. The concrete screw or Tapcon® actually taps or cuts threads into the base material as it is inserted into the hole.

Each type of anchor has a minimum embedment- the minimum distance (in inches) that the anchor must be inserted into the base material for it to obtain its holding values. The deeper the embedment into the base material, the better the holding values. Tapcons have a maximum embedment of 1-3/4". Expansion anchors must be spaced a minimum of 10 anchor diameters away from each other and no closer than 5 anchor diameters from an unsupported edge. Anchors used in outdoor or caustic environments/atmospheres should be stainless steel or zinc plated.

Steps to Installing Concrete Fasteners

To install a concrete anchor, a hole must be drilled in the base material. Carbide tipped drill bits (that meet ANSI standards) must be used as they are tolerance matched to the concrete fastener. A hammer drill* must also be used because it will drill the hole correctly and is designed to break up the base material as it hammers. The hole should be drilled 1/4" to 1/2" deeper into the base material than the anchor will penetrate. This allows for any material to fall when the anchor is inserted into the hole. After the hole is drilled, it must be cleaned of all debris, material or dust.

* Remember to use safety goggles and earplugs during drilling and to always follow the manufacturers' safety precautions when using power tools.

Wedge Anchor - for use in concrete only

1. Drill hole into the concrete using a carbide tipped bit that meets ANSI standards. Bit size = anchor diameter when working with wedge anchors. Drill a hole 1/2" deeper than the anchor will penetrate into the concrete making sure that the minimum embedment requirements are met. The hole can be drilled while the fixture is in place.  It is important to make sure that the bit diameter being used will fit through the hole in the fixture.
2. Clean out the hole using a wire brush, compressed air, vacuum, blow out bulb or another method.
3. Put the nut and washer onto the wedge anchor and make sure that the nut is on the last threads (this will protect the threads from damage when the wedge anchor is hammered into the hole in the concrete).
4. Insert the wedge anchor through the fixture's hole and into the hole in the base material. This should be a very tight fit- use a hammer to complete the installation until the nut and washer are tight against the fixture. It is important that the threads go below the surface of either the base material or the fixture.
5. Turn the nut clockwise, until finger tight.
6. Using a wrench, turn the nut 3-4 times until snug. The recommended torque values can be found here.

Sleeve Anchors - for use in concrete, brick or block

1. Using ANSI standard drill bits, carefully drill a hole in the base material. Hole size = Bit size when installing sleeve anchors. Make sure the hole is always drilled 1/2" deeper than the sleeve anchor will penetrate the base material. Minimum embedments also need to be met. The hole can be drilled with the fixture in place making sure the bit will fit through the fixture hole.
2. Clean the hole of all debris made during drilling.
3. Sleeve anchors come fully assembled with a nut and washer. It is important that the nut is on the end of the threads to protect the threads during hammering.
4. Insert the sleeve anchor through the fixture hole and into the hole you drilled in the base material. A hammer will be required to pound the sleeve anchor into the material until the washer and nut are tight against the fixture.
5. Tighten the nut until finger tight, always turning clockwise.
6. Using a wrench, turn 2-4 times until you are sure it is snug.

Drop-in Anchors - for use in concrete only

1. The diameter of a drop-in anchor refers to the inside diameter. The hole to be drilled = the same diameter of the outside of the anchor. Carbide tipped drill bits (meeting ANSI standards) must be used. The hole needs to be drilled 1/4" deeper than the anchor will penetrate. The hole can't be drilled while the fixture is in place due to the fact that the hole is larger than the diameter of the bolt being inserted into it. To use a drop in anchor- set the fixture in place, mark where the holes should be drilled, remove the fixture and then drill the holes.
2. Clean the hole of any debris before continuing.
3. Insert the anchor into the hole. A setting tool is required to set the anchor. Setting tools will correspond to the inside diameter of the drop in anchor. Example: a 3/8" drop in anchor requires a 3/8" setting tool. Setting tool is placed inside the threaded portion of the anchor and struck until the lip of the setting tool touches the lip of the drop in anchor. This will ensure that the anchor is fully set in the concrete.
4. Place the fixture over the drop in anchor and thread the bolt through the fixture and into the drop in anchor.

Strike Anchors - for use in concrete only

1. Anchor diameter = hole size when working with strike anchors. The properly sized carbide drill bit must meet ANSI standards. The hole should be drilled 1/2" deeper to allow space for any dust created during installation.
2. Clean the hole of all debris before continuing installation.
3. Strike anchor needs to be inserted through the fixture and into the hole with the nut, washer, and set-pin in place until the nut and washer are tight against the fixture.
4. Using a properly sized hammer for the diameter of the anchor, set the pin with a number of square/sharp strikes to the head of the pin until the pin is flush with the top of the anchor. There is no need to use torque to set the anchor since it is set with the correct set pin.

Lag Shields - for use in concrete, brick or block

1. Lag shields are female type anchors. The designated diameter of the anchor = the inside diameter of the lag screw that will be placed into it. Hole size must be larger than the inside diameter. Example: a 3/8" diameter lag shield requires a 5/8" hole. Properly sized ANSI carbide bits must be used to drill the holes for lag shield anchors.
2. Clean holes of any debris.
3. Place the lag shield in the hole with the closed end of the lag shield inserted first.
4. The fixture is then placed over the lag shield, inserting a lag screw through the fixture and into the lag screw. Use a wrench to turn the lag screw clockwise until tight.

All of this information should assist in the safe and correct installation and use of concrete anchors and fasteners no matter what your application may be.

More Information:

Zinc Plated Wedge Anchors

Hot Dipped Galvanized Wedge Anchors

304 Stainless Steel Wedge Anchors

316 Stainless Steel Wedge Anchors

Zinc Plated Sleeve Anchors

Stainless Steel Sleeve Anchors

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