Tips and tricks for efficiently operating Froth-Pak insulation foam

In this article you can read everything about PU foam from Froth-Pak. We explain to you what the benefits of Froth-Pak are and what you need to process it. We have also created an extensive step-by-step plan in which we explain step by step how to best process Froth-Pak.

With competitive price and timely delivery, NFJ sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

Do you have questions about insulation, PU foam or Froth-Pak? Please feel free to contact our specialists!

What is Froth-Pak PU foam?

Froth-Pak is a sprayable PU foam with a closed cell structure for perfect insulation. Dupont Froth-Pak has a high insulation value and adheres to almost any surface. Due to the unique system, you don't need pumps, compressors or other machines to use Froth-Pak. Heat the cylinders, simply connect the hoses together and you are ready to process the sprayable PU foam!

Benefits of Froth-Pak PU foam

In addition to the simple processing and unique packaging, the sprayable Froth-Pak PU foam has many more benefits, including:

• Excellent price/insulation ratio.
• Very high insulation value (lambda value approx. 0.022) 
• Very fast curing.
• Easy to work with after curing (10 minutes).
• No more condensation on your walls and therefore no rust formation.
• Fire retardant.
• Suitable for vertical and overhead application.

What is Froth-Pak used for?

Froth-Pak is used for many different insulation applications in homes, business premises, boats, sheds, etc. Some examples of projects with Froth-Pak:

• Insulation of roofs, floors, windows and walls.
• Insulation of cold rooms.
• Insulation of containers.
• Insulation of boats.
• Insulation of swimming pools.
• Insulation of crawl spaces and basements.
• Filling hollow spaces to prevent condensation or noise pollution.
• Sealing cracks.
• Solving thermal bridges and construction nodes.

Froth-Pak packages

Froth-Pak comes in a package with two cylinders: Isocyanate (red) and Polyol (blue). The PUR foam is supplied as a complete system in the following volumes:

• 30 litres (Froth-Pak mini kit)
  Use this Froth-Pak mini kit for small insulation jobs. This set comes with a hose set, spray gun and 3 nozzles. This way you can get started right away with the ready-to-use PUR foam set. 
  
  
• 400 litres (FP180)
  Set of 400 litres for medium-sized insulation jobs. The set is easy to move thanks to the metal handle. Carry the cylinders in one hand and handle the gun with the other hand. With this set you provide a surface of approximately 8m2 with a layer of PUR foam of 5 cm thick.
  
  
• litres (FP600)
  Need a large volume of polyurethane foam? Then choose the  litres Froth-Pak set. Due to the yield of more than 1 cubic meter of PU foam, this set is suitable for large insulation jobs. With this set you can provide an area of ​​approximately 26 m2 with a 5 cm thick layer of PUR foam.

Tip: don't know exactly how much PU foam you need? Please contact our customer service team. We are happy to advise you!

What do you need to process Froth-Pak?

When using insulation foam, it is necessary that you have the right products at home. At Polyestershoppen you will find all the necessary materials to be well prepared to get started with the sprayable PU foam from Froth-Pak. Always use the following products:

• Froth-Pak spray foam insulation (set of 30, 400 of litres)
• Froth-Pak heating jacket
• Hose set
• Spray nozzles
• Vaseline spray
• PU cleaner
• Protective foil
• Painter's tape
• Safety materials

Froth-Pak Instructions 

Follow these steps while processing Froth-Pak:

Step 1. Preheat the Froth-Pak set

Good preparation is very important when you start working with Froth-Pak. Therefore, make sure you have the right materials at home.

For proper functioning of the foam with maximum efficiency, it is necessary to preheat the Froth-Pak set. Therefore, ensure that the temperature of the cylinders is at least 24°C but at most 40°C. Is the temperature of the packaging too low? It may then happen that one of the pipes becomes clogged, causing the PUR foam to be of lower quality or not even harden. Therefore, always use a  Froth-Pak heating jacket (even in the summer months).

Start preheating on time. It can take quite a while before the contents are really warm. We recommend turning on the heating mantle at least a day in advance.

Step 2. Prepare the workplace (mask off)

Prepare the space you are going to insulate well and mask off everything that you do not want PU foam on. Use protective foil and masking tape for this. In addition, make sure that the room is dry and grease free. It is not possible to spray PU on a damp surface or on a surface with condensation or grease residue.

Step 3. Put on the correct protective clothing

Once cured, Froth-Pak is completely safe. However, it is important to protect yourself well during processing. Therefore, always work safely and use the correct personal protective equipment when working with polyurethane foam.

Always wear old clothing, (disposable) overalls with a hood, safety glasses, gloves and a vapour mask with A2 filters.

Tip: with the Froth-Pak safety package you immediately have all the necessary safety materials at your fingertips!

Step 4. Connect the Froth-Pak set

Are the cylinders preheated, is the area masked off and are you wearing the correct protective equipment? Then you continue with connecting the Froth-Pak set. Follow the following steps:

• Connect both hoses to the correct cylinder using the indicated color (red to red, blue to blue).
• Tighten the nut of the hose set using the supplied wrench.
• Open the cylinders fully.
• Spray the application gun with Vaseline spray or lubricate it with a tube of Vaseline.
• Flush the pipe thoroughly by spraying it several times at full power into a garbage bag (without nozzle).
• Clean the inside of the gun with PU cleaner.
• Click the nozzle into the application gun. You will hear a click indicating that the nozzle is firmly attached. 

The set is now ready for use!

Step 5. Apply an adhesive layer

First apply a thin adhesive layer to the surface. This ensures that the next layer adheres better. Use a quick, sweeping motion to apply a thin layer. Use a blue nozzle to apply the adhesive layer.

The company is the world’s best Rust-Proof Foam Reinforced Metal Cotton Materials supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

Please note: PU foam must start foaming immediately. If this does not happen within 60 seconds, there is a chance that one of the pipes is clogged. Then first spray without a nozzle into an empty garbage bag for a few seconds to thoroughly flush the pipes. Attach a new nozzle and continue spraying. If in doubt, do a test first.

Step 6. Apply an insulating layer

Once you have provided the surface with an adhesive layer, continue by applying a thick insulating layer of approximately 5 cm.

Connect a new white nozzle and treat the surface again. It is possible to apply this layer with a blue nozzle if you prefer to work in thin layers. Spray in a slow, sweeping motion to create a thick layer of insulation. This way you spray approximately 1 to 1.5 cm thick. Only spray the next layer after a few minutes once the first layer has hardened.

Replace the nozzle as soon as you notice that it produces less output. Then less PU comes out of the gun. If you replace the nozzle, you will immediately notice a difference! Also replace the nozzle if you stop spraying for more than 30 seconds because the nozzle becomes clogged by the solidifying polyurethane foam.

Keep an eye on the colour of the foam. Does the foam suddenly turn white? Then the ISO pipe is clogged (the red pipe). Remove the nozzle, spray briefly and install a new nozzle. Test regularly whether the foam hardens properly.

Please watch our Trouble shooting video with useful tips for solving problems.

Step 7. Finish the area

Have you treated the entire space with a thick layer of PU foam? Then you let the material harden for an hour. Make sure you continue to ventilate the room well in the meantime. After an hour, remove all tape and covering foil. You can easily remove excess PU foam with a saw, snap-off knife or putty knife. Now finish the insulated space as desired.

Handy Tips & Tricks

Tip 1. Make sure you cover and mask the area properly

Prepare the area and cover it properly. Tape the protective foil securely so that you cannot accidentally pull it off.

Tip 2. Keep all important materials within reach

Make sure that you always have a number of important materials within reach during processing. This way you don't waste time searching if you suddenly need them. Always keep the following materials within reach:

• New nozzles.
• New gloves.
• PU Cleaner Vaseline Spray.
• Garbage bag or cardboard box to inject a sample into.

Tip 3. Choose the right nozzle

Choose the right nozzle for spraying the PUR foam. The nozzles have different colors and are for different applications:

• White nozzle [medium]
  Most used and versatile nozzle for all-round applications.
  
  
• Blue nozzle [medium/fine]
  Use the blue nozzle for applying thin (fine) layers such as adhesive layers.
  
  
• Green nozzle [small]
  This small nozzle is used for the controlled application of strips of insulation foam.
  
  
• Black nozzle [large]
  Use the black nozzle for filling large cavities. High capacity spraying.

Make sure you always order enough nozzles so that you don't run out. 

Tip 4. Remain calm

Relax and stay calm while working with Froth-Pak. Read carefully, make a plan in advance and don't let time pressure rush you. This way you work in a structured way and you can easily deal with setbacks, such as blockages.

More information about Froth-Pak in insulation?

Do you have questions about Froth-Pak or can we advise you on your project? Please feel free to contact our specialists. We will help you make your project successfull!                                      

Related informative articles:

• Insulating your roof with sprayable Froth-Pak PU foam
• Insulating a van with Froth-Pak PU foam

Recommended videos:

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Metal Explosion-Proof Flooring Material.

Hello - I will soon be getting a 30'x45' metal building installed in the next couple months. The building will be split into a 30'x15' section that will serve as a "cabin" and occasionally be heated on weekends during hunting season or when I am out working at my property. The other 30'x30' section will be used to store a work truck, tractor, etc. I may run a heater in that section once in a great while. I was planning on having woven R-17 installed on the entire roof and the walls of the 30'x15' section, and to save some money, having double installed on the 3 exterior wall sections of the 30'x30' side. I know nothing about insulation, so would this causing any problems by having different types of insulations on the walls of the building? Would I be better off just going with the woven r-17 in the entire building (buy once, cry once)? Those 2 insulations are my only options during install from the builder. I do not want to use spray foam, and I also considered getting vinyl faced batt installed after the building was construction, however my preference is to have the insulation installed during the build process as I have heard that is the better route to go then patching it in. Does any one have any insight or advice they could offer? Thanks in advance!

I've always wondered on these buildings that are insulated by the erection crew that typically roll out wide rolls over the the exterior of the framing. Compressing f/g insulation (by sandwiching it between the exterior metal and the framing) makes it no longer much of an insulator a depending on the spacing of the "framing" members, what are you really getting for your money?
The labor for this type of "insulation" is next to zilch unless it's windy that day, and the f/g material is not far from it either.
How much is this insulation going to cost you?

Where it gets compressed, the thermal bridging is probably high. But same thing if you insulate with bat. Foam is different as you cover the framing.

I don't trust the guys who build buildings to steer me right for insulation, but definitely some insulation (even the blanket type) is better than the alternative.

FLIR camera would probably tell the tale.

Thanks for all of the replies. The building will be in NE Kansas. With a discount they have going, the woven r-17 looks like it is going to run about $2.50/sqft. The spray foam estimate I got was $2.40 (2" thick closed cell) and 3" vinyl faced batt was between $1.75 and $2.00 (and that was going to have to be installed after the building was constructed so issues where the siding and frame meet.

Spray foam all the way.
Not only will it be multiple times better comfort and heating or cooling, but I'll also add tremendous strength to the building.
I run away from that "woven" shit for that price as fast as I could.... right over to the spray guys door step! Thanks for everyone's feedback! Since I will not be heating the building most of the time, my primary concern is condensation/vapor. I would just hate for it to start rusting prematurely. I cannot find much on the Woven R-17. Here is a description I found and they say it is about 3/4" thick. One positive is it does look pretty good installed (since I will not be enclosing the inside of the building).

" This is a mixture of aluminum foil, bubble material, and woven material, which combine to produce the R17 rating. Woven insulation has a higher R-value rating and is a better option for controlling the temperature in a metal building."

Attachments

• r17_pic.jpg
• VERTICAL INTERIOR .jpg

I'll give my 2 cents worth. I have 2 buildings, the first is our home, a 'barndominium', metal frame welded construction with R-panel exterior. When I built that I put the 6' wide rolls of insulation in, the insulation was the bubble wrap with a foil backer. In my opinion based on that experience I will say that that bubble insulation is just barely better than nothing. It's too thin and just doesn't do much.
The other building I have is a shop, same type welded frame with R-panel exterior. In that one I had closed cell foam sprayed in, about 1" thick on walls and ceiling. That makes a huge, and I mean huge improvement! I will never use any of the roll insulation again. The spray foam does cost more but there are many advantages, the main one is that the closed cell foam seals everything. Imagine spraying bed liner over the interior of the wall. It helps stiffen it up walls, quietens down wind and rain, and removes all drafts. The draft thing is a biggie. The radiant barrier contributes quite a bit to the R rating.

I will mention again that I am a great proponent of spray foam under the right conditions. It provides great thermal and draft protection. But. In the metal building business we are seeing extreme failures with spray foam. I will acknowledge that there are a lot of people on this forum that a very pleased with the results of the installation of spray foam and they should be. The problem we as builders are seeing is rust and corrosion from trapped moisture. To complicate the problem all the damaged components that need to be replaced are “glued” together by the foam.

Part of the problem is that it doesn’t show itself for years and when it does it is to late to do anything but replace the damaged components. Several manufacturers will void warranties on material if foam is applied and myself and many contractors will void any warranties if foam is applied. The problem seems to be most prevalent in humid and costal areas but cases have shown up all over the country. I had a situation here where we had to replace several sheets and the problem was traced back to high humidity due to parking vehicles in the building during the winter.

My intent is not to alarm anyone but to make new builders aware of potential issues and to inform those with existing conditions to keep an eye out for damage. The things to watch for on existing buildings is bubbling and rust coming through on the outside of the sheets.

Spray foam all the way.
Not only will it be multiple times better comfort and heating or cooling, but I'll also add tremendous strength to the building.
I run away from that "woven" shit for that price as fast as I could.... right over to the spray guys door step!

Closed cell may add strength, but it's the most expensive insulation you can buy and isn't as good a value in terms of R value per dollar over open cell.

In the end, you shouldn't need foam to help hold your building together.

I'm a big fan of the "hybrid" insulation idea, especially in budget conscious situations.

If I do another and I'm really budget stretched, I'll probably have the roof deck done in open cell and handle the walls myself with bat or cellulose.

The radiant barrier contributes quite a bit to the R rating.

I will mention again that I am a great proponent of spray foam under the right conditions. It provides great thermal and draft protection. But. In the metal building business we are seeing extreme failures with spray foam. I will acknowledge that there are a lot of people on this forum that a very pleased with the results of the installation of spray foam and they should be. The problem we as builders are seeing is rust and corrosion from trapped moisture. To complicate the problem all the damaged components that need to be replaced are “glued” together by the foam.

Part of the problem is that it doesn’t show itself for years and when it does it is to late to do anything but replace the damaged components. Several manufacturers will void warranties on material if foam is applied and myself and many contractors will void any warranties if foam is applied. The problem seems to be most prevalent in humid and costal areas but cases have shown up all over the country. I had a situation here where we had to replace several sheets and the problem was traced back to high humidity due to parking vehicles in the building during the winter.

My intent is not to alarm anyone but to make new builders aware of potential issues and to inform those with existing conditions to keep an eye out for damage. The things to watch for on existing buildings is bubbling and rust coming through on the outside of the sheets.

Check me on my understanding of the definition of "metal building". Is this the light guage galvanized sq. tube frame with the "Ag" type panels run horizontally?
I'm not clear about the apparent leaking or the presence of moisture.
To the rust or corrosion, could this be from fastener leaking?
It is possible that with an insufficient depth of spray foam the "dew point" is at the exterior metals inside surface (captured) and should have been applied to a deeper depth? (discounting wet or snow encrusted vehicles, that's a whole different chapter)
I respect your opinion being a tradesman in the business with a seemingly honest concern for your business and customer. Jack stand, it isn’t a metal building problem, although it shows up mostly in metal buildings. Post frame buildings are having the same problem. This is a fairly recent problem because it takes several years to show up as damage. This is similar but different to the synthetic stucco disaster about twenty five years ago.
There doesn’t seem to be a clear cause. There is the thought that moisture is getting through cracks in the foam or that moisture is being carried in from the compressor in the spray equipment. When it is sprayed directly on the inside of the sheets the moisture remains and eventually works its way out through the metal. I have seen pictures of purlins and girts completely rusted away.
Obviously this isn’t a universal problem because there are a lot of buildings that are fine but why take the chance.

Woven insulation is a new term to me. Maybe a regional thing. I always encourage my customers to use vinyl faced fiberglass. The main consideration is that it will never be as inexpensive as when the building is erected.
What type of building are you having installed? Tube steel, cold formed or red iron?

There is a vinyl-faced glass fiber blanket insulation (I think, 5’ wide rolls, with an obvious, crossed fiber in the vinyl ), that is being furnished with some metal buildings. My neighbor got such in North Carolina a couple years ago.
I guess his won’t tear easily like my own, ten-year old stuff that’s not reinforced. I think mine just has a bad batch of facing. It tears easily. When Iworked in metal buildings 40 years ago, I don’t remember such a problem.

Where it gets compressed, the thermal bridging is probably high. But same thing if you insulate with bat. Foam is different as you cover the framing.

I don't trust the guys who build buildings to steer me right for insulation, but definitely some insulation (even the blanket type) is better than the alternative.

FLIR camera would probably tell the tale.

There aren't that many. Maybe 4 on a 20ft tall building. So at 2" wide that's 8" in 20ft that isn't insulated well. There are more than 4 on the roof though, so idk. They drop the stuff off from the roof and then put the panel on. It has vinyl on one side and insulation on the other held on by adhesive I think. I'm new to the GJ but have been reading all of the threads I can about insulating an inexpensive, pre-fabbed, light gauge metal, detached garage/shop. I live in South Carolina (very humid summers). Many of you have hit all around what I'm proposing to do, but I can't find the answer I'm needing in regard to a hybrid option I am contemplating. My building is 24'x35'x9' with a vertical roof (1" hat channels screwed to 2 1/2" tube framing). I am on a small budget and want to use the Great Stuff to seal the very small crack at the ridge, the corrugations at the eaves and the corrugations at the horizontal wall panels, essentially "sealing off" all airflow. I plan to use 3/4" plastic HVAC strapping at 2' centers to hold R-13 faced fiberglass insulation in place, with the vapor retarder facing the inside of the garage. With no airflow, I want to know if I push the insulation all the way up to the metal roofing, not touching the roofing at the hat channels, will I get condensation there and will it be enough to cause problems down the road? The other option is to not use the Great Stuff foam at the ridge and eaves, and use spacers for my strapping to hold the insulation away from the metal roof, allowing the flow of air and vapor, though I don't see how much air will flow through the small opening in the ridge (1/4" maybe). This will introduce the problem of unwanted pests (wasps to name one) coming into my garage/shop. I plan to heat and cool the building for comfort all year long and I haven't found the answer about which way I should go on this.