Laying a Limestone Floor on a Budget

You&#;ve probably seen a glimpse of our new tiles over the last few posts, because well, our kitchen renovation has been done in a kind of sporadic order, going back and forth between jobs like crazy. It&#;s a job we started back in the late summer of last year (September, if I remember correctly!) and finished at the start of Spring this year. Yep, it really took us that long! It wasn&#;t the actual process of tiling that took us so long, but having large appliances in the way that couldn&#;t be moved until tiles had set, needing to constantly clean the area before starting again and then there was the small (big!) issue of needing to replace some (all!) joists in the dining room and re-concreting part of the kitchen floor before we could even begin to approach the finish line on this job.

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But it&#;s done now. And I&#;ve had so many questions about our flooring, where it&#;s from, how we laid it, what we used, that this post is looooong overdue. One of the first images I had pinned as inspiration for the kitchen was one that featured some gorgeous limestone tiles from Floors of Stone. I loved them. But the price tag? £52 p/m (!!!) and never in a million years could I justify spending that much money on some flooring. But they were everything I wanted in a kitchen floor and every other material flooring I looked at, just didn&#;t cut it. I searched what felt like the entire internet for a cheaper alternative and stumbled upon an eBay seller Stoneworld-uk who sells pretty much an EXACT match to the Umbrian limestone from Floors of Stone, but at HALF the price, £23/m. I ordered samples from both Floors of Stone and the cheaper eBay one and there was virtually no difference between the samples. The only real difference was the underside, which obviously is never going to be visible. I&#;m no limestone expert, so I can&#;t vouch for the difference in quality in terms of how they&#;re made/mined &#; but I can confirm, they definitely didn&#;t look any different &#; And that&#;s good enough for me!

The small sample in this photo below is from Floors of Stone and the large tiles underneath are from  the seller Stoneworld-uk on eBay. They&#;re both Umbrian Limestone and you can see &#; there&#;s literally no difference!

So, excited as I was &#; I made the order instantly, they arrived within days in a giant crate and so perfectly packed that there was only one tiny breakage. Since we don&#;t have a drive, the pallet had to be dropped off at the kerbside, which meant I did have to manually carry each tile from the crate into the house for storage. Let&#;s just say I had some muscles by the end, but I was chuffed to bits with my new purchase! I even bought some dark grey cathedral limestone for our log burner hearth as well, which you can see in this post.

Fitting Limestone Tiles DIY-Style?

Even though we&#;d saved hundreds on finding affordable limestone, we still didn&#;t have the budget to pay for a professional tiler to fit the floor for us. Luckily, I&#;ve tiled SO many times now that I may as well be pretty much qualified &#; Generally speaking, there&#;s not THAT much difference between laying other tile materials and limestone. Bigger tiles are always more awkward to lay, tiles that aren&#;t consistent in thickness are also a bit harder and of course, natural stone is a little harder to cut. But really the same rules apply, it&#;s all just a bit more fiddly. Unless you&#;re totally new to tiling and DIY in general, fitting your own Limestone floor is totally 100% DIY-able and you can save a fortune!

The first step I took was the lay the limestone tiles out and I thoroughly recommend doing this so you can pick some kind of pattern in which to lay them &#; I&#;ve gone for a kind of brick-work pattern. Since limestone is a natural material, the tones vary from tile to tile as well, so it&#;s also a good idea to do this so that you can mix up/blend the different tones to make sure the overall look of the floor is natural as possible.

Which Adhesive?

Okay so this is pretty important as there&#;s about a bazillion different adhesive&#;s on the market. Firstly, you need one that&#;s suitable for Natural Stone &#; these are usually cement based I think, don&#;t quote me on that. And secondly, it depends on what kind of floor you&#;re laying them onto. If you have any kind of underfloor heating, whether it&#;s electric or water &#; you&#;ll need a flexible adhesive. If there&#;s any movement on the flooring beneath, such as movement from floorboards, then you&#;ll also need to go flexible as well. We have underfloor heating in our kitchen (check out this post for how we DIYed that) so flexible was necessary for us. I&#;ve used mainly this Wickes Tile Adhesive, but also a couple of bags of Mapei Tile Adhesive as well. Both worked a treat!

Laying Limestone Tiles

Much like any other kind of tiling the steps are pretty easy, but getting it all perfect is sometimes easier said than done. You&#;ll need to trowel out an even bed of adhesive onto the floor, lay the limestone tile over the top, push onto the adhesive firmly and then check with a spirit level that it&#;s perfectly level and matches up in height with adjacent tiles. If it isn&#;t level, you need to press firmer into the adhesive where required. I actually find hitting the tile with a rubber mallet is easier to do this with, but you need to be careful not to hit too hard.  If you find you haven&#;t laid enough adhesive, you&#;ll have to fight the tile off the floor and adhesive and try again. Adhesive is sticky sticky messy stuff &#; so you&#;ll have great fun &#;

You&#;ll also want to make sure that the tile has full contact with the adhesive and there are no air pockets underneath. This causes a weakness in the tile and if anything was to ever fall onto that spot of the tile, it would be much more likely to crack. It&#;s also really important if you have underfloor heating, as air pockets are less effective at allowing the heat transfer between the cables to the tile. You can usually tap onto the tile and hear air pockets beneath them &#; but generally speaking, as long as your adhesive is evenly laid and you&#;ve pressed the tile firmly into it, you shouldn&#;t go too wrong.

You&#;ll also want to make sure to clean up any tile adhesive that forces its way out into the grout line &#; if you don&#;t, you&#;ll have a nightmare trying to remove it once it&#;s dry. I also recommend clearing up adhesive around the tile if you need to take a break &#; it dries faster than you think and you certainly don&#;t want raised bits on the floor pushing the tile up higher than it needs to be.

A word of caution &#; tile adhesive never goes as far as you think it will &#; or it says. We ended up spending way more than we had planned! Although I think I had been mixing it a little too thick in the beginning. :/

Normally with tiling, you&#;d use spacers to evenly space out the tiles &#; but Limestone tiles aren&#;t perfectly square, so spacers here wont work. I used my finger as a rough guide to space out tiles, but gaged how square it was to adjacent tiles by eye. Some of the grout gaps are smaller than others, some are slightly larger &#; but this is really the beauty of limestone and its natural look.

Cutting Limestone

You can cut limestone in a few different ways &#; but I just used a wet tile cutter with a Diamond blade suitable for natural stone. This probably isn&#;t the most recommended method unless you have a cutter recessed into a table, purely because the size and weight of limestone can make it difficult to manage pushing through the cutter. If you have the ability to recess your cutter within the table so the limestone can rest onto it, you&#;ll find it much easier! Otherwise it&#;s a bit of a balancing act &#; but is still totally do-able if it&#;s all you have, like us! Although I will say, expect the blade to jam fairly often going through a particularly long cut. You can also use an angle grinder with a diamond blade, which gives you much more control over the cut and means you don&#;t have to move the tile itself during cutting. I was really nervous about snapping the tiles, but we didn&#;t have a single breakage. They&#;re 22mm thick and are really very tough tiles!

Sealing Limestone

Prior to grouting, it&#;s recommended to seal Limestone so that any colourings in the grout don&#;t affect the pores of the Limestone. I made sure to clean up any adhesive on the tiles (thanks to the dogs,  this was quite a bit!) by using a carpet brush and hot water. It took quite some scrubbing, but it does come off, so don&#;t panic if you do have some adhesive on the tiles. The sealant I&#;ve used is this one by Mattstone which leaves the tiles brilliantly water resistant leaving actual droplets on the tile and it really brings out the colour of the tiles with a shine too, although it didn&#;t half stink the house out!

Grouting Limestone

For wide and deep grout lines I thoroughly recommend using a wide-gap grout like this one (we&#;re using the colour &#;limestone&#;) and using a grout bag with it. A grout bag is basically like an icing bag, but for grout. Instead of smearing grout all over the tiles and pushing it into the line, like you typically would when grouting &#; it allows you to fill up the grout line from the bottom, without making a mess. It also means you can ensure the lines are properly filled without any air pockets underneath which could eventually cause the grout to crack and crumble &#; which is obviously far more likely to happen with deep grout lines. It makes grouting SO much easier and I would seriously recommend using one with Limestone. I actually made one from a bin bag when doing the hearth, but they&#;re cheap to buy and fully washable, so well worth it in my opinion!

To smooth the grout out, I actually just used my finger. Probably not a recommended technique, but I couldn&#;t find a large enough grout smoothing tool to use &#; and actually it worked really well and looks just as natural as the rest of the floor, plus it was totally free!

So this is the end result. I&#;m really really pleased with how it looks. Natural stone is said to only look better with age and it can really literally last a lifetime. Whilst the tiles were really reasonably priced, this was still a pretty expensive floor. At least, it is, in my opinions of expense. But it&#;s age-less, won&#;t date and is something I look at every day and just freaking LOVE. Our budget was £350 and we did go over, but what the heck &#; I regret nothing! (You can see full costs at the bottom of this page!) Sneak peak of kitchen counters at the side there as well..

I should also mention one last quirky little feature we&#;ve added &#; which is a step. Since Limestone is 22mm thick and we&#;re not having it in the dining room &#; there was a fair height difference between these two rooms. So to combat that we&#;ve made a wooden step. It&#;s high enough to actually be an obvious step, rather than a tripping hazard and divides the two rooms quite well too. We were unsure whether it would work &#; but everyone on Instagram agreed it was the best option and they were totally right (as they always are)! So we&#;ve made this from just a regular length of CLS timber and chiselled out the underside so that it can sit flush against the tiles. It&#;s quirky, but a nice little touch I think and it gives the room a bit more character!

So, I hope this helps anyone out there looking for affordable limestone flooring and how to DIY it as well. And hopefully this post clears up some of the many questions I get about the floor &#; But if I&#;ve missed anything or you want to know more, please give me a shout! This limestone floor is the variation called Umbrian Limestone &#; but you can check out Cathedral Ash in this post as well.

What do you think? Do you love Limestone floors as much as I do?

Costs

(rounded to the nearest pound)

New Tools Purchased:

Blade for tile cutter £7 Grout Bag £7 Materials Used: Limestone Tiles £281 (excluding delivery costs) Adhesive £107 (this included some adhesive for the underlay under the UFH as well) Grout £26 Sealer &#; free from previous job Total: £428

Kezzabeth

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Are you dreaming of a bathroom renovation but unsure about the cost of tiles? Do the numerous tile options and their varying prices make you feel overwhelmed?

In this blog post, we&#;ll explore the average cost of different types of bathroom tiles and help you understand your options.

By the end of this post, you&#;ll have a solid grasp of tile costs and be able to make an informed decision for your bathroom remodeling project.

And if you&#;re looking for design inspiration, be sure to check out our blog on the latest bathroom tiling ideas for your bathroom!

Cost To Tile A Bathroom

The cost to tile a bathroom can vary greatly depending on factors such as the type of tile, the size of the bathroom, and the installation method.

That&#;s why it&#;s more useful to look at materials and labor costs for tiling a bathroom so you can determine the most accurate budget for your specific situation. 

However, since retiling a bathroom is often done as part of a larger bathroom remodeling project, it may also be helpful to look at the average cost of a bathroom remodel when thinking about the cost to tile a bathroom.

In Atlanta, GA, you can expect to pay between $100k and $180k+ for a premium bathroom remodel.

Per Remodeling Magazine&#;s Cost vs. Value report, a midrange bathroom remodel averages about $25k.

Now that you know the average cost of a full bathroom remodel in Georgia, let&#;s dive into the cost of materials for tiling your bathroom.

First, we&#;ll break down the cost of some of the most popular types of bathroom tiles.

What Do Different Types Of Bathroom Tiles Cost? 

Ceramic: $1.25 to $30 per square foot

Ceramic tiles are a popular choice for bathrooms because they are affordable, durable, and available in various colors and designs.

They range from basic tiles to high-end options, which explains the wide price range.

Travertine: $3 to $20 per square foot

Travertine tiles provide a natural, earthy look and are generally more expensive than ceramic tiles.

They are suitable for both floor tile and wall tile applications and come in various finishes and colors.

Slate: $8 to $20 per square foot

Slate tiles offer a rugged, natural look and are often used for bathroom floors.

They are durable and slip-resistant, making them a practical choice for wet areas.

Granite: $5 to $200 per square foot

Granite tiles are known for their strength and durability, as well as their distinctive appearance.

They come in various colors, patterns, and price points, making them a versatile choice for bathrooms.

Limestone: $5 per square foot

Limestone tiles are relatively inexpensive, and their natural, warm appearance makes them a popular choice for bathrooms.

They are available in various finishes, such as honed or tumbled.

Porcelain: $3 to $30 per square foot

Porcelain tiles are similar to ceramic tiles but are denser, more stain-resistant, and more durable.

They are available in a wide range of colors, patterns, and finishes, and can mimic the look of natural stone or wood.

Glass tiles: $12 to $26 per square foot

Glass tiles add a modern, sleek look to bathrooms and are available in various colors, sizes, and shapes.

They can be used for accent walls or as a decorative border.

Marble: $10 &#; $350 per square foot

Marble tiles are known for their luxurious appearance and are often used in high-end bathroom designs.

They are available in various colors and patterns. Prices vary widely based on the style and quality of the marble.

Wood-look tile: $3 to $30 per square foot

Wood-look tiles are ceramic or porcelain tiles designed to mimic the appearance of wood.

They provide the warmth and visual appeal of wood without maintenance concerns.

Vinyl tile: $1 to $3 per square foot

Vinyl tiles are a budget-friendly option that provides the look of more expensive tiles.

They are easy to install and maintain.

Rectified tile: $1 &#; $6 per square foot

Rectified tiles are ceramic or porcelain tiles that have been mechanically cut for precise edges and uniform sizing.

They offer a clean, modern look and are suitable for bathrooms.

*Keep in mind that the prices above are averages and may change based on market conditions.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Different Types Of Bathroom Tiles

Understanding the benefits and drawbacks of different tile materials can help you make an informed decision for your bathroom remodeling project.

NANOGRESS PORCELLANATO contains other products and information you need, so please check it out.

Ceramic Tile

• Benefits:
  • Budget-friendly
  • Available in various colors and styles
  • Easy to cut and install
• Drawbacks:
  • Less durable than other materials
  • Can chip or crack easily

Travertine Tile

• Benefits:
  • Offers a rustic, elegant look
  • Durable
• Drawbacks:
  • Porous, requires regular sealing
  • Higher installation cost

Porcelain Tile

• Benefits:
  • Highly durable and moisture-resistant
  • Low water absorption rate
• Drawbacks:
  • Challenging to cut and install
  • Heavier and may require structural support

Slate Tile

• Benefits:
  • Extremely durable and slip-resistant
  • Unique natural variations in color and texture
• Drawbacks:
  • Requires regular maintenance and sealing
  • Can be expensive

Marble Tile

• Benefits:
  • Luxurious and timeless look
  • Enhances home value
• Drawbacks:
  • Soft and porous, requiring regular sealing
  • Prone to stains and scratches

Granite Tile

• Benefits:
  • Durable and scratch-resistant
  • High-end appearance with various colors and patterns
• Drawbacks:
  • Needs sealing to prevent stains
  • Can be costly

Rectified Tile

• Benefits:
  • Straight edges allow for minimal grout lines
  • Creates a sleek and modern look
• Drawbacks:
  • Precision required for installation increases labor costs
  • Typically more expensive than non-rectified tiles

By considering these benefits and drawbacks and matching the tile type to the appropriate use case, you can choose the best tiles for your bathroom retiling project.

This approach ensures durability, ease of maintenance, and a pleasing aesthetic that suits your bathroom&#;s specific needs.

Best Use Cases for Each Type of Tile

By matching the tile type to the appropriate use case, you can choose the best tiles for your bathroom retiling project.

This approach ensures durability, ease of maintenance, and a pleasing aesthetic that suits your bathroom&#;s specific needs.

Ceramic Tile

Best For:

• Bathroom Walls: Ceramic tiles are perfect for bathroom walls due to their variety of colors and styles.
• Low-Traffic Areas: Suitable for areas that do not experience heavy foot traffic.

Travertine Tile

Best For:

• Bathroom Floors: Travertine adds a rustic and elegant look to bathroom floors.
• Accent Walls: Ideal for creating feature walls due to its natural beauty.

Porcelain Tile

Best For:

• Bathroom Floors: Highly durable and moisture-resistant, perfect for floors.
• Shower Enclosures: Excellent for shower walls and floors due to low water absorption.

Slate Tile

Best For:

• Bathroom Floors: Slate&#;s slip-resistant surface makes it ideal for floors.
• High-Moisture Areas: Durable and suitable for areas with frequent water exposure.

Marble Tile

Best For:

• Accent Walls: Adds a luxurious touch to bathroom walls.
• Vanity Tops: Suitable for vanity countertops due to its elegant appearance.

Granite Tile

Best For:

• Bathroom Floors: Durable and scratch-resistant, ideal for high-traffic areas.
• Countertops: Perfect for vanity tops and other surfaces requiring durability.

Rectified Tile

Best For:

• Where Seamless Designs Are Desired: Ideal for creating a sleek, modern look with minimal grout lines.
• Large Areas: Suitable for expansive floor and wall areas to achieve a uniform appearance.

Bathroom Retiling Budget Allocation Tips

Set Priorities

When planning your bathroom retiling budget, it&#;s essential to set priorities to ensure you get the most value for your investment.

Focus on High-Impact Areas

Allocate more budget to high-impact areas that enhance both aesthetics and functionality.

Here&#;s specific guidance on where to focus, in order of importance:

Shower Area

Tiles: Porcelain or granite
Why: High durability and water resistance are crucial. These tiles ensure long-lasting performance and can handle frequent water exposure.

Bathroom Floor

Tiles: Porcelain, slate, or granite
Why: Floors need to be durable, slip-resistant, and able to withstand high traffic. Investing in high-quality tiles here ensures safety and longevity.

Walls and Backsplashes

Tiles: Ceramic or rectified
Why: These areas do not require as much durability. More affordable options like ceramic can be used without compromising style, allowing you to save budget for other critical areas.

Accent Walls and Vanity Tops

Tiles: Marble or travertine
Why: These tiles add a touch of luxury and elegance. Allocating budget here can create a high-end look in smaller, focal areas.

By focusing your budget on these high-impact areas, you can achieve a beautiful and functional bathroom that meets your aesthetic and practical needs without overspending.

Factors That Affect The Cost of Bathroom Tile Installation

Several factors can influence the overall cost of bathroom tile installation, including:

Size of the area to be tiled

The size of the bathroom area you plan to tile will significantly impact the overall cost of the project.

Larger areas will require more tiles, which will increase the material costs.

Additionally, the labor required to install tiles in a larger space will be more time-consuming, increasing labor costs.

When planning your bathroom renovation, it&#;s essential to measure the area accurately and account for any irregular shapes or features that may affect the amount of tile needed.

A good rule of thumb is to purchase 15-20% more tile than you think you&#;ll need.

Labor costs 

The cost of labor for tile installation can vary widely depending on factors such as the complexity of the project, the experience level of the installer, and the local market rates for skilled labor.

Simple installations with straightforward patterns and minimal cutting may cost less in labor, while intricate designs or installations requiring custom cuts will be more labor-intensive and therefore more expensive.

Additionally, labor costs can vary by region, with urban areas and areas with a higher cost of living typically having higher labor rates.

It&#;s essential to obtain quotes from multiple tile installers to get a clear understanding of the labor costs involved in your project.

That being said, you can expect to pay between $100 to $150 per hour for professional tile installation.

Amount of preparation required

Before installing new bathroom tiles, the area may require various preparation tasks, such as removing old tiles, repairing or leveling the subfloor, or installing a backer board.

The amount of preparation work needed will depend on the current condition of your bathroom and the type of tile you choose.

More extensive preparation work will increase the overall cost of the project, as it will require more labor and materials.

It&#;s crucial to assess the existing condition of your bathroom and consult with a professional to determine the extent of preparation work needed to ensure a successful tile installation.

Type of tile

As noted above, the cost of tile can range from as little as $1 per square foot, to over $350.

Tile rating

Tile ratings indicate the durability and suitability of tiles for various applications.

Higher-rated tiles are typically more expensive due to their enhanced durability and performance.

Here&#;s a quick rundown of the five classes of tile, as rated by the Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI): 

• Class I: These tiles are best suited for wall applications and light residential use, such as bathroom walls. They are not recommended for floors or high-traffic areas.
• Class II: Suitable for light to moderate traffic areas, such as residential bathroom floors. They are not recommended for areas with heavy foot traffic or commercial applications.
• Class III: Recommended for moderate to heavy traffic areas in residential settings, such as kitchens, hallways, and living rooms. They are not suitable for commercial applications.
• Class IV: Suitable for all residential applications and some light commercial settings, such as offices and small shops. These tiles can withstand moderate to heavy foot traffic.
• Class V: The most durable tiles, suitable for both residential and commercial applications with heavy foot traffic, such as shopping malls and public spaces.

Installation location

Labor for wall tile and countertop tile installations are typically more expensive than floor tile installations.

Additional Cost Considerations

When planning your bathroom tile project, it&#;s essential to consider the following additional costs to ensure you have an accurate budget:

• Backer board installation: A backer board is a water-resistant material installed behind tiles to provide support and prevent moisture from penetrating the wall or floor structure. The cost of backer board installation varies depending on the type of board used, the size of the area, and the complexity of the installation. 
• Subfloor repair: If your bathroom subfloor is damaged or uneven, it may need repair or leveling before tile installation can proceed. Repairing a subfloor can cost several hundred or several thousand dollars, depending on the extent of the damage and the materials required. More extensive repairs or subfloor replacement will incur higher costs.
• Subfloor installation: In some cases, a new subfloor may be necessary to ensure a stable and level surface for tile installation. The cost of installing a new subfloor will depend on the materials used and the size of the area. 
• Geographic location: Labor costs for tile installation can vary significantly depending on where you live. In areas with a higher cost of living or a competitive market for skilled labor, you may need to pay more for a professional installer.
• Cost of mortar or adhesive and grout: Mortar or adhesive is used to secure the tiles to the substrate, while grout is used to fill the joints between the tiles. The cost of these materials can vary depending on the type and quality you choose. On average, you can expect to pay between $0.50 and $2 per square foot for mortar or adhesive, and between $0.25 and $1 per square foot for grout. Keep in mind that some tiles, such as glass or stone, may require specialty mortars or adhesives, which can increase the cost.

When planning your bathroom renovation, make sure to account for these additional costs to avoid surprises and ensure a smooth project from start to finish.

Tile Installation: DIY vs. Hiring A Professional

If you&#;re considering installing bathroom tiles yourself, the cost of installation will be the value of your own time.

On the other hand, hiring a professional for the installation will usually cost between $100 and $150 per hour, depending on the specific contractor you hire.

While DIY installation can save you money, it&#;s essential to weigh the benefits against the risks.

A professional installer will have the experience and expertise to ensure a high-quality finish, while a DIY project might lead to mistakes that could cost more to fix in the long run.

If you&#;d like more information about the pros and cons of DIYing a bathroom remodel, be sure to check out our blog post on  DIY Bathroom Remodeling vs. Hiring a Contractor: A Cost and Time Comparison.

Ranney Blair Weidmann Are Your Local Bathroom Remodeling Experts

We hoped you have learned some valuable information about the cost of various types of bathroom tiles and factors that can affect the overall cost of your bathroom renovation.

Armed with this knowledge, you can make an informed decision when selecting tiles for your bathroom remodel.

Here at Ranney Blair Weidmann, we specialize in home remodeling and can help you create the bathroom of your dreams. Our experienced team can guide you through the entire process, from tile selection to installation. 

For more limestone effect porcelain tilesinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.